Installed on Redcar seafront in 2013, this is Sinterlation, a sculpture which references the town’s fishing history (the boats which form the bottom of the columns) and its historic steelmaking (the chains). The non-standard spelling references sinter, a mixture of iron ore, limestone and coke which is used to feed a blast furnace.

It’s a perfectly nice, if forgettable, bit of civic sculpture which brightens up the place, but I’m not moved to any strong feelings.

I recently walked past this sculpture next to London’s ExCel exhibiton centre and thought, “that’s new!”

It’s not, though. It’s been there since 2009. I evidently walk round with my eyes closed.

The sculpture shows three dock workers, and was the result of a long campaign supported by the Queen Mother, among others, to commemorate the people who worked at the docks between 1855 and 1983. The figures are based on the likenesses of real dock workers, including Johnny Ringwood who helped raise money for it. Now aged 89, he re-visited the statue earlier this year.

The bloke with the hat and the book is Patrick Holland, depitcted as a tally clerk but in reality a stevedore, a word I last thought about in April 2021.

The scene is loosely copied in Mychael Barratt’s Mile End Mural.

These two giant chairs, by Yinka Ilori, are currently on display next to the Royal Victoria Dock. One represents happiness and the other pride, though the fact that I can’t tell which is which is perhaps a marker of their limited success.

While we’re on refreshed artworks in Rotherhithe—and there’s a sentence I never imagined writing—this pair of boats made by Kevin Boys was recently unveiled on the refurbished Redriff Footbridge, replacing a previous artwork that had been stolen.

I would never have come across this spot had I not serendipitously wandered into the Russia Dock Woodland on an ‘I wonder where that path goes?’ whim.

After the closure of the Surrey Commercial Docks in the 1970s, Russia Dock was filled in—except for a little trickle of a stream. The surrounding area was planted to create a little woodland. Forty-odd years after it was completed, it’s become a 34-acre haven of nature in a formerly industrial area.

The filled-in dock sits at a lower level than the surrounding pathways, with the capstones still visible. This provides a nice link to its industrial past, but it did strike me that safety considerations might have prevented that design approach if the woodland were created today.

I’ve previously written about the many country parks in North East England, which stand as the beautiful legacy of our mining past, and I suppose this is a sort of industrial dock equivalent.

In the first half of the twentieth century, the area around Rotherhithe in London did a roaring trade in importing ‘deal’—large pieces of timber. In order to import it, it needed to be unloaded from incoming ships, and ‘deal porters’ were the answer to that problem.

Working in pairs, one worker would lift one end of a stack of deal, and their partner would stand at the deal’s mid-point and heave it up onto his shoulder. The worker would then walk, carrying this extraordinarily long and heavy deal, across a gangplank to the dock and into nearby warehouses. You could, I guess, say that this method was ‘the art of the deal’—and it was backbreaking work. There’s some archive footage on Youtube. Much of the wood was turned into paper to supply the nearby newspaper presses, while the rest was used in construction and furniture carpentry.

In 1990, Philip Bews and Diane Gorvin created a sculpture in steel and oak to sit among the greenery on the edge of Canada Dock commemorating this work. It was well-received, though as the trees and greenery grew around it, the sculpture became difficult to see during the more verdant seasons.

Last year, the sculpture was taken away for refurbishment. A few weeks ago, it returned to the newly redeveloped Canada Dock. The workers now look out over a vermillion bridge of thousands upon thousands of pieces of timber, as though their work will never be completed. I’m not sure whether I’m more depressed by that idea, or by seeing how the greenery which previously stretched higher than the seven metres of the statue now doesn’t even hide its base.

Still, I do rather like the sculpture, even if it’s a bit figurative for my usual taste.

Unveiled earlier this year, this is Belfast’s statue of Winifred Carney, recognising her role in the 1916 Easter Rising and her commitment to social justice. As she was often described, she is depicted with her typewriter in one hand and her Webley pistol in the other.

The statue was unveiled on International Women’s Day along with one of abolitionist Mary-Ann McCracken. These are the first two statues of non-royal women at Belfast City Hall. In a bizarre twist, they were unveiled in the presence of actors dressed up as them, which was… a choice.

Photobombing in the background is Sir James Haslett, who was Mayor of Belfast from 1887 to 1888. He was also an MP and a chemist.

Next to the McKee clock stands this boondoggle that I’ve walked past many times over the past two decades. I’ve always wondered what it is, but never been able to locate any information about it.

It turns out that it’s a memorial drinking fountain… though the fountain itself has been missing for a very long time. It in fact predates the McKee clock by some decades.

On 29 September 1893, The Northern Whig recorded:

A memorial, of very handsome design, has been erected by the members of the Bangor Corinthians Sailing Club to the memory of the late Mrs. Arthur Hill Coates in the new Esplanade, Bangor. The memorial, which takes the shape of a water fountain of four jets, covered by a handsome dome, and standing upon a solid foundation of concrete, was erected by the firm of Messrs. McFarland & Company, of Glasgow, and bears the following inscription:—“Erected by the members of the Bangor Corinthians Sailing Club in memory of their sincere and true friend Mrs. Arthur Hill Coates, 1893.” The position occupied is the angle adjoining the Sandy Row Promenade, and it is scarcely necessary to mention that the new esplanade is considerably beautified and enhanced by the splendid structure.

The article in The Newtownards Chronicle on 7 October of the same year has fewer words, but I think is more accurate in its naming of the manufacturer as

Messrs. Macfarlane & Company

They at least agree that it is handsome.

The Royal Ulster Yacht Club has in its possession a letter to Mr Arthur Hill Coates which includes the line:

We also desire that at the same time you will convey to Mrs. Coates our warmest thanks for the great interest she has taken in the welfare and prosperity of the Club, and ask her acceptance of the accompanying diamond ring.

This happily suggests that Mrs Coates was aware of the esteem in which she was held before she died… and also rather suggests that there was a lot of money sloshing around sailing clubs in the late 1800s.

This is Bangor’s McKee Clock, unveiled in 1915. It’s known as the McKee clock as the local tax collector, James McKee, contributed £200 towards its cost.

It was not uncontroversial, particularly its location. The site which was eventually chosen formerly hosted the town’s bandstand. The Herald and County Down Independent of 17 April 1914 records some disagreement at a Council meeting about whether the bandstand should really be moved:

“The proper site for the McKee clock is on the present bandstand site … There is no need for a bandstand at all in the esplanade.”

“By no means; oh dear no. Bangor must always have a pierrot troupe and the best obtainable too, at that.”

“But a bandstand is for a BAND.”

This raises a question: what the heck is a pierrot troupe, and is it really so bad for it to be in a bandstand?

Originally, Pierrot was a stock character of a sad clown, frequently appearing in Italian pantomime or comedy from the late 17th century.

In England, the name became adopted for troupes of vaguely clownish entertainers who would put on variety shows of song and comedy. They were a popular feature of seaside towns, often performing on piers, and some troupes travelled across to Ireland to perform. The form mostly died out in England in the 1950s, though National Museums NI has photographs of a show in County Down from 1962, so perhaps they lasted a little longer there. Performing in bandstands doesn’t seem to have been uncommon.

Anyway, the bandstand was moved to make way for the clock: it now stands in Bangor Castle’s Walled Garden. Ironically, the local newspapers feature many advertisements for band concerts at the McKee Clock thereafter, suggesting that—perhaps—the bandstand was better located before it moved.

But the clock was well received too.

It might be All Saints’ Day today, but I’m afraid I’m picking on just one of their number: St Columbanus, who walked this Earth back in the 500s AD.

He seems to have been a bit of a character: it is said that squirrels used to run down from trees and into the folds of his cowl to be close to him. I think this is supposed to be charming, but it frankly sounds like a massive hassle: he clearly had a lot to contend with.

His life is commemorated through a trail of seven bells in Bangor: the squirrels might have left him alone in death, but the Northern Irish are still keen to knock seven bells out of him. Poor guy.

And, as a rubbish blogger, I’ve only managed to take pictures of six of them. The first one of the trail is a giant bell, and I didn’t notice it, because I was too preoccupied with this: the oldest wall in Bangor:

The commemorative plaque omits to tell us when it was built, beyond a vague ‘13th century’, but it does let us know that the Council did some work on the wall in 2008.

Anyway, this means I can’t show you the first stop on our ‘interpretive art trail’ (not my words). So you’ll just have to imagine a giant bell with a wavy surface, commemorating Columbanus’s childhood journey across Lough Erne to the Island of Cleenish for his early education.

After leaving Cleenish, Columbanus went to Bangor Abbey… a time which is weirdly not commemorated on this Bangor trail. Instead, the second stop on our journey records him leaving Bangor to travel to Brittany.

While in Brittany, Columbanus worked to ‘root out the lusts of the flesh’. I imagine that being covered with squirrels might have helped with that.

He also founded a school in a former Roman fortress in the mountains. It became so oversubscribed that it eventually needed new premises, which he founded at Luxeuil:

While there, he met Gallus—another monk who had been taught at Bangor Abbey—who began to follow him. He originally came from somewhere on the French/German border, which will become important later.

The bells then seem to skip the bit of Columbanus’s life where he hid in a cave for a few years in search of solitude. They also have nothing to say about his spat with some bishops over the date of Easter: he wrote to Pope Gregory I and Pope Boniface IV on the point. Gregory ghosted him, and he folded before Boniface could reply.

I think this is a fascinating bit of his story, with much to say about the interaction between the divine and the human in the making of Christian festivals, and I’d definitely have dedicated a bell to it, but I’ve never been asked to make even one interpretative artistic bell in my entire life (to date).

Anyway, we skip ahead to Columbanus being thrown off a ship following a storm. The captain judged that the storm was god’s punishment for transporting Columbanus. Columbanus ended up at Bregenz in Austria, where he built an oratory:

And this is where Gallus’s heritage becomes important: as he could speak the local language, he played a big role in helping Columbanus convert the locals to Christianity.

And—local connection alert—Bregenz was twinned with Bangor in 1987 ‘in celebration of this important historical connection’ (not my words).

Since 2001, Bangor has also become a ‘sister city’ of Virginia Beach in the United States, though I regret to report a lack of connection to Columbanus. This relationship exists ‘because of the similar port area, military affiliation, and oceanfront tourist attraction’.

Back to Columbanus, whose time at Bregenz wasn’t going so well: a war had resulted in the area being subsumed into Burgundy, and a few of Columbanus’s students had been murdered. So, like any man of God, Columbanus prayed hard for a peaceful resolution and stayed to help defend his adopted community ran off to Italy.

Gallus, however, stayed behind, in hiding in a little cell. Eventually, long after his death, an abbey was built in his honour. Little-by-little, the Swiss city of St Gallen grew up around it, and, in 1983, the abbey area became a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Oh, and there’s also this:

Meanwhile, Columbanus was living it up in Milan, where he was welcomed by the King and Queen of Lombardy. He once again set about converting the locals:

The Bangor Antiphonary, a historically important 36-leaf book of hymns and prayers put together in Bangor Abbey about a century after Columbanus’s death is somewhat inexplicably in Milan, though no-one seems particularly vexed by that. I suppose to many in Northern Ireland, it’s better than it being in one of the London museums, where it would probably have ended up had it not been taken abroad. Maybe they’d have loaned it back to the locals occasionally, like the Lindisfane Gospel.

The King of Lombardy gave Columbanus a tract of land at Bobbio, near Milan, to build a monastery—where, ultimately, Columbanus died and was buried:

Twenty years after Columbanus’s death, Jonas of Bobbio wrote a biography of him—the first known biography of an Irish person. And in 2002, because of his history of travelling through Europe, the Vatican declared St Columbanus to be the patron saint of motorcyclists… which honestly feels like a stretch.

But as for the bells—well, I think that we have to count them as a success. I’d never heard of the bloke before I saw them, and now know I’ve written (and you’ve read) a 1,000-word treatise about him.

And that’s the power of interpretative art trails… maybe.